Those seeking to boldly go where no collector has gone before can add the Guillaume V De Bethune Replica DB25L Milky Way to their wrist to get a cost of 225,000 CHF when it becomes available later this year.Aside from perhaps a moon phase, few complications seem better suited to some De Bethune than people showing multiple time zones. Together with the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller (mentioned here), you don’t only real-time indication but also a authentic GMT display, time, and date. Regardless of the high level of complication, De Bethune has managed to conserve the clean lines and marine chronometer aesthetic of their DB25 family. If you are looking to out jet set the most ordinary of flyers, the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller will possess you time perusing together with all the best of them.The 45mm-wide 18k white gold case stands tall, with its low lugs offering unobstructed access to the crown and time pusher. The case shape is can-like, using a certain old-world charm that makes the opinion feel like a classic compass or deck instrument. The face of the DB25 is practically entirely dial, ringed with a thin circle of polished white gold.While the dial might appear quite complex at first glance, the various displays function based on concentric rings. The center is world time, which is corrected by the hour using a pusher and is read through the 24 hour mark around its circumference. Inside that 24-hour ring is a small two-color world (blued steel and pink gold) which is used to display a second timezone, generally your home time or GMT. Much like other De Bethunes, the sphere rotates to signify AM/PM through its light and dark sides (quite clever, no?) . De Bethune refers to the particular piece as a “microsphere,” so make of that what you may.
At SIHH 2016, Swiss De Bethune will debut their first world-time watch with the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller. Based on the ongoing DB25 collection case, the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller contains a new movement with some new technology – and I’d like to discuss that element of the watch first. Devotees of the brand will recognize that the still familiar-looking movement has some interesting differences.
I like the DB25T Zodiac Tourbillon watch a lot. On the front, you’ve got what is a very elegant dial with some of the very best dial function that money can buy. Flip the watch over, and what you’ve got is a very futuristic-looking movement that’s unlike some of its contemporaries and is assembled and finished to a very high standard. It’s a marriage of the old and the newest, and the resulting package is one which I find to be somewhat attractive and enticing. Evidently, the zodiac motif isn’t suitable for everyone – I know some people who believe strongly against this whimsical concept – but if you’re a believer or if you aren’t bothered by it. The DB25T Zodiac Tourbillon is just one very special watch with very nice qualities. The De Bethune Quetzalcoatl Replica DB25T Zodiac Tourbillon is limited to only 20 bits and is priced at $275,000. The Milky Way is estimated to comprise somewhere in the assortment of 100-400 billion stars, and an estimated 100 billion planets. Swiss luxury watchmaker De Bethune’s DB25L Milky Way interpretation of the beauty and massiveness of the galaxy that we inhabit is on a much more quantifiable scale, but to luxury watch aficionados, it’s no less arresting in its ambition.The De Bethune DB25L Milky Way is throw in platinum with 66 baguette-cut diamonds in the bezel, contrasting the richly heat-blued ionic dial where the representation of a small fraction of the galaxy’s most celebrities have been both trapped by hand, and laser-engraved in silver foliage.
The Immobiliere De Bethune Replica DB28T Kind of Blue watch features the same case as the DB28 nevertheless includes their 0.2-gram tourbillon which De Bethune states is the lightest on the planet. It defeats at 1/10th of a second and does a complete rotation in 30 minutes. . Such as the BD28 it’s a silicon balance wheel, but this one is encircled with a white gold ring. The observable DB2019 movement operates at 36,000 vph for a 5-day power reserve that’s ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel.Like with many De Bethune watches, these “Kind of Blue” pieces will need to be viewed in person to be fully known or valued. Both have come on a grim alligator strap, which is both appropriate and obvious. Based on the ongoing DB25 set instance, the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller includes a brand new movement with some new technologies – and I’d love to share that element of this watch first. Devotees of the brand will realize the still familiar-looking movement has some intriguing differences.Perhaps the very fascinating new movement feature is that the all-blued titanium equilibrium wheel bridge and shock-absorption system. Not only is the blue and polished ceramic bridge neat-looking, but there’s a unique system that allows for a degree of “play” if the timepiece is exposed to shock. You also have a fresh type of blued titanium balance wheel with 18k white gold weights. According to De Bethune, their in-house balance wheel system has been redesigned for better aerodynamics and performance all around.
Perhaps the most interesting new movement feature is the all-blued titanium balance wheel bridge and shock-absorption system. Not only is the polished and blue titanium bridge neat-looking, but there is a unique system which allows for a degree of “play” if the timepiece is exposed to shock. You also have a new style of blued titanium balance wheel with 18k white gold weights. According to De Bethune, their in-house balance wheel system has been redesigned for better aerodynamics and performance overall.
The Rallye De Bethune 1986 Replica DB28 Maxichrono technically includes subdials, but they’re more about concentric rings within the bigger dial, the smaller of which can be at the middle of the face and is utilized to measure the chronograph hours up to 24. This utilizes a blued steel hand, and so does the index to the chronograph seconds, which can be the longest hand on the dial. Each one of the hands are hand-polished. I also like the design of the dial that takes inspiration from classic pocket watches. The dial utilizes different levels to better highlight legibility, but in addition, it lends a higher-end look to the dial presentation.I recently wrote about how I was not a fan of boosting monopusher chronographs over those with separate pushers to start/stop and reset the chronograph. If, however, you would like a circumstance where a modern monopusher chronograph movement is cool, then you’ll find it from the DB2030 motion. De Bethune incorporates the chronograph pusher into the crown that’s located at 12 o’clock for an extremely elegant, clean look for the case.This crown position is perfect, given the position of the big articulating lug attachments on the case at 3 and 9 o’clock. If you have never worn out a De Bethune DB28-style case earlier, then let me explain this system has the lug structures made to be “spring loaded” and to wrap around the wearer’s wrist, which makes what would otherwise be a larger watch a whole lot more wearable. It’s a cool system, and the gap in materials and colours between the lugs and the case help emphasize this unique functional design part of this De Bethune DB28.At 45mm wide, the De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono case is just 11mm thick, but wears bigger due to the lug structures. That said, I hope you recall what I mentioned above regarding the watch differently being very comfortable due to the pivoting lugs. De Bethune really excels in polishing and decoration, and if you see less refined elements about this particular piece, it’s because it is a pre-production prototype.
Regrettably, every one these tiny movement pieces, white gold, and time zones don’t come cheap. Then again, nobody who is even remotely acquainted with De Bethune Titanium Replica is going to assume that they do. Offering a clearly De Bethune spin on the entire world timer, the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller is the type of watch you can just dream about, an oasis from a lifetime spent in coach.De Bethune has always been preoccupied with a spacey, celestially inspired aesthetic, so it is no surprise that their most recent DB28 watches pay tribute to that most cosmic colour, blue. The De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue and DB28T Kind of Blue will be the latest additions to the line, mentioning the colour’s association with infinity and stability as well as “plenitude” – the concept of being inside and outside itself. Anyhow, it is a beautiful and rich-looking color that’s created through heating and rust to get that De Bethune look.The De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue watch is made out of a comfortable grade 5 titanium case that’s mounted on the familiar floating lugs seen in bits like the DB28 GS. At 6 o’clock, you may see the moon phase made of steel and palladium which involves adjusting after every 122 years. On the instance back, between two and 3o’clock, you’ll realize the power reserve. Sized a little bit smaller than the prior DB28 watches, the situation is 43mm wide and 9.3mm thick. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and gets 6 weeks of power reserve. The plate and bridge cover look great since they are adorned with the “Côtes De Bethune.”
Of course, silicon is still a major element in keeping the movement performance high, as it is used for the escapement. No one uses silicon and titanium in watches quite like De Bethune, and I thoroughly appreciate how well they continue to improve upon traditional horological principles and techniques using contemporary technology as well as design aesthetics.
The new movement in the De Bethune Wikipedia Replica DB25 World Traveller is known as the De Bethune caliber DB2547. Given its features, it is notably “over-engineered” being made up of 430 parts. Typically, only complex calendar or minute repeater watches have this many parts. For collectors, this is probably a good thing, even though traditional wisdom for all machines is: “the fewer parts the better.” I am simply going to compare De Bethune movements to some German cars that enjoy relishing in enormous amounts of what some people might consider “over-design.”
The Agence De Voyage Bethune Replica DB28 Maxichrono technically includes subdials, but they are about concentric rings inside the bigger dial, the smaller of which can be at the middle of their face and can be used to assess the chronograph hours up to 24. This utilizes a blued steel hand, and thus does the indicator for the chronograph seconds, which is also the longest hand on the dial. De Bethune uses a rose gold hand to the chronograph minutes, and blackened steel hands to get the moment. Each one of the palms are hand-polished. I also like the design of the dial which takes inspiration from classic pocket watches. The dial uses various levels to better highlight legibility, but it also lends a higher-end look to the dial presentation.I recently wrote about how I was not a fan of promoting monopusher chronographs over people that have different pushers to start/stop and reset the chronograph. If, however, you would like a situation where a modern monopusher chronograph motion is cool, then you’ll find it in the DB2030 motion. De Bethune incorporates the chronograph pusher to the crown which is situated at 12 o’clock for a very elegant, clean look for your case.This crown position is ideal, given the position of the large articulating lug attachments on the situation at 3 and 9 o’clock. If you’ve never worn a De Bethune DB28-style case before, then allow me to clarify that this system has the lug structures made to be “spring loaded” and to wrap around the wearer’s wrist, which makes what could otherwise be a larger watch much more wearable. It is a cool system, and also the gap in materials and colours between the lugs and the case help emphasize this distinctive functional design element of the De Bethune DB28.At 45mm wide, the De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono case is merely 11mm thick, but wears larger due to the lug structures. That said, I hope you recall what I said above about the watch differently being very comfortable as a result of pivoting lugs. De Bethune actually excels in polishing and decoration, and if you see less refined elements about this specific piece, it’s since it is a pre-production prototype.
The DB25T Zodiac Tourbillon relies on the DB25T from 2012, with notable changes around the dial. It sports De Bethune’s unique drum shape and hollowed lugs, but these lugs are fixed – they do not proceed to conform to the contour of your wrist. Since the case is quite broad and the lugs are substantial, the watch wears fairly big on the wrist.The dial is quite magical. On the dial will be the 12 signs of the zodiac, that are actually strong gold medallions hand-engraved by celebrity Michèle Rothen. An extremely knowledgeable engraver, Michèle also worked together with De Bethune to create engravings for the dial of the DB25 Imperial Fountain in 2013. These golden medallions are put to a mirror-polished blued titanium ring. Apart from the gold zodiac inlays, in addition, there are solid white gold “stars” set to the ring. These elements seem exceptionally vibrant, especially when light falls on it in the ideal way.The blued titanium ring and solid gold zodiac inlays might be the highlight of the dial, but there is heaps more for owners to gawk at. Exterior of this blued ceramic ring is a minute track and inside the titanium ring is a silver-tone hour ring with an hours marked by big Roman numerals. Deeper inside is a silver guilloché disk with a aperture at 12 o’clock that De Bethune calls the “movement operating indicator.” It is actually more like a power reserve. The index reads 0 when it’s fully wound and 5 if it is from energy, which is actually somewhat odd since the claimed energy book is 4 times.
Operating at a modern 4Hz (28,800bph), the DB2547 movement has a long power reserve of 5 days. Unfortunately, there isn’t a power reserve indicator, which is a feature I really think is important on manually wound movements. The power reserve is spread between two mainspring barrels which have a “self-adjusting” system which, as I understands it, ensures that the flow of power from the barrels to the movement remains relatively consistent as the springs wind down.
In terms of functionality, the DB2547 movement is all about indicating two time zones and having a discreet peripheral date indicator (no seconds indicator, though!). There is the main time on the main dial, as well as a 24-hour (GMT) world-time indicator. Here is where De Bethune gets their brand DNA involved. Rather than a traditional hand to indicate the GMT time, there is a small moving orb. De Bethune, quite humorously, refers to this small ball as a “microsphere.” If you find that odd, then welcome to the Swiss watch industry where slightly vague poetic descriptions always keep us on our toes when trying to determine what the hell people are talking about. The ball is blued on one side and 18k pink gold on the other. It turns at 6am or 6pm to change from indicating AM to PM times – a clever use of the sphere concept so that you know if it is day or night where the local time is.
At first, I thought the “microsphere” (it makes me laugh a bit each time I say that) was free-floating and connected via magnetism like the Christophe Claret X-Treme 1. Rather, it is traditionally mounted via some type of arm hidden by the channel it is in. The ball moves along a 24-hour track which is how you indicate the time in the second zone. Next to it is the world-time disc which shows reference times. L’hôpital De Bethune Replica made an interesting design choice here because they spread the zones out asymmetrically. It actually helps the viewer understand the relative differences between the times in the cities, and not all of them are even standard time zones, such as Mumbai which is GMT + 5.5. While I am a fan of symmetry, I also appreciate the utility offered in this unique and clever GMT-plus-world-time indication system.
De Bethune also seems to suggest that, unlike most world-time watches, you can independently set the local and reference time zones. This is either a plus or minus depending on how you use a world-traveler watch, but given our day and age when you don’t need to worry about messing up the time thanks to electronic time keeping everywhere, it is probably more convenient for today’s mechanical watch wearers to set the local and reference time independently.
In addition to that, the dial combines elements of standard chronograph timing instruments with modern touches like the De Bethune 25l Replica palms and ribbon for the Arabic numeral hour markers. All of this is a bizarre blend of components which, because of De Bethune’s particular aptitude for curating the strange, functions out for a very useful, quite nice-looking, and very first high-end timepiece.Then there’s the matter of this movement that’s visible through the sapphire crystal caseback window on the back of the situation, and you’ve got still another item of beauty. What is interesting is that even when looking closely in the movement, it doesn’t actually resemble a chronograph if you don’t take a close look at the elements that, I think, form the clutch mechanism. According to De Bethune, this in-house designed and made caliber DB2030 movement even has three columns wheels (if one is to understand them properly). The DB2030 movement is wound and produced from 384 components – the majority of which are decorated and finished. The DB2030 also includes a patented chronograph clutch system that they call the “De Bethune Total Clutch.” Together, the elements result in a high frequency chronograph which uses all central hands and measures around 24 hours.There is no remarkable trick involved in making a chronograph watch that measures 24 versus 12 hours (or some quantity of time, for that matter). This is all about dial layout and gearing. That said, on account of the simple fact that most chronograph watches rely on small subdials to register elapsed time, most chronograph watches that you visit just step up to 12 hours.
On the wrist, the De Bethune Db25 Quetzalcoatl Replica DB25 World Traveller watch is 45mm wide and 13.7mm thick in 18k white gold. The dial is a mixture of lovely textures and both silver and champagne tones. The discreet peripheral date indicator scale and small hand are wonderfully elegant and designed to not require an obtrusive date indicator hand that cuts through the entire dial. Roger Smith has a very similar system on his upcoming Series 4 watch (hands-on here).
With the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller, the brand does their best to offer a lot of information in a subtle way. If anything, the brand likes the avant-garde as much as they like visual refinement. There are arguably a lot of numbers happening on the dial with the three rows of Arabic numerals – but all that information more or less needs to be there. For what it is, the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller is a successful design and De Bethune isn’t exactly incorrect in assuming that many of its customers travel quite frequently. Price for the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller is 150,000 Swiss francs. debethune.ch