As a Frenchman, I was so extremely impatient to handle the Slim, together with high hopes and — let’s be honest — a few fears of being disappointed. The first question was clear: how thin just are we talking to your time-only Slim? I will allow the specs do the speaking here: whether the movement is only 2.6 mm thick, so the watch case itself reaches 9 mm. This is too thick to be eligible as an ultra-thin watch but to me personally, yet this elevation was really an advantage as it balances the general proportions of the watch. Had the case been too flat, with a 39.5 millimeter diameter you’d have faced the chance of it appearing like a plate on the wrist. As unexpected as it may sound, the lugs were the first revelation of this Hermès. Short and angled, not only do they provide some design to the circumstance, but they also create the eye wear extremely well, even for someone used to vintage proportions (the majority of the watches I wear position between 33 mm and 36 mm). The form of the lugs does matter — this was the first insight of this French test drive.Immediately after the dial caught my attention, it was pretty hard not to notice the unusual numerals. The font was designed particularly for the Lean with a French graphic designer called Philippe Apeloig. While the name may not ring a bell to you, if you’d lived in France you would likely have encounter the numerous typographies he created for museum exhibitions, in addition to the horse jumping event Le Saut d’Hermès back in 2013. The vintage car enthusiasts among us may also remember his work for the exhibit of Ralph Lauren’s outstanding collection in 2011.
Conceived as a circle inside a square, the Hermès Cape Cod TGM – short for très grand modèle, or “very large model” – features the automatic H1912 made by movement specialist Vaucher.
The key characteristic distinguishing the H1912-equipped calibre from the quartz models is the dial: the former has a stamped chequerboard decoration in the centre with the date at six, while the quartz versions have a radial brushed finish.
The square case is 33mm by 33mm, with elongated, curved lugs inspired by a horse bit.
The Cape Cod TGM Manufacture is available with dials in black, white, grey or blue.
The H1912 is a variant of the Vaucher VMF 3000, a compact, 10 1/2″ movement intended mainly for ladies’ watch, but well suited to the square form of the Cape Cod.
Majority owned by high-end watchmaker Parmigiani, Vaucher is also a quarter owned by Hermès, which has invested heavily in beefing up its watchmaking capabilities in the last decade. Respected for its high quality movements, Vaucher is the same outfit that supplies most of Richard Mille’s automatic movements.
At the same time, Hermes Luxury Watches Replica also announced new versions of the quartz Cape Cod TGM, which is sized the same at 33mm by 33mm. These include the Cape Cod TGM Cadran laque with a metallic finish dial in brown or red, the Cape Cod TGM Bracelet de force that’s mounted on a leather strap with a band beneath the watch, and the Cape Cod TGM Bicolore with two-tone leather straps.
Price and availability
The Cape Cod TGM Manufacture starts at US$5950 on a Barenia calfskin strap and US$6200 on an alligator strap. That’s about 10% more than the retail for the same model with an ETA movement.
The quartz models start at US$3175.