Hermes is one of the main luxury businesses and has created a reputation as a watch business in recent years.Think around Hermès and suddenly your mind envisions magnificent French leather products. However, this manufacture also has had a very important place in horology, collaborating with Jaeger-LeCoultre, also for a long time retailing Universal Genève wristwatches in Paris. Hermès also started producing its own lines of watches from the late 1970s. The Arceau, Heure H, and Cape Cod I watched during my youth in France exhibited the elegance, and lively design, feature of the brand. To be frank, at that time they lacked serious cred for watch enthusiasts, because they relied upon rather regular quartz or automatic movements. Things started to change with the collaboration using the Manufacture Vaucher Fleurier 10 decades ago, however, the Slim might be the turning point for Hermès watches, and I had the Slim for a Week About The Wrist to find out the answer.In 2006, Hermès dealt with its lack of in-house-movement manufacturing by taking a 25% ownership in the Manufacture Vaucher Fleurier, slowly transitioning out of this ETA era. The changes were incremental: a number of the Cape Cod and the recently released Dressage versions obtained exclusive calibers, then Hermès launched a poetic way to read and control time together with Le Temps Suspendu (Stopped Time), and the Dressage L’Heure Masquée (Hidden Hour) which Jack reviewed here. Granted, those last two watches were impressive, but they remained market — given the nature of the own complications, and also their pricing.It is in this circumstance that Hermès unveiled the tasteful Lean group this past year. One needs to congratulate Hermès for the boldness of the transfer, as this segment is not the most energetic in contemporary watches — or vintage for that matter. However, this unconventional option is in tune with Hermès’ doctrine of offering the chic everyday products that it’s convinced its clients desire. And, true to the feeling of Hermès’ distinctive elegance — which Ben covered, ” the Slim turns out to be a fairly unique and appealing dress watch.
First introduced in gold last year, the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel is the complicated sibling to the time-only Slim.
Like its simpler cousin the perpetual calendar features the custom typography by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig, one of the several details that give it a clean but nuanced look.
The new platinum model sticks to the same design, with the only tweak being the dark blue dial with silver-tone numerals and rhodium-plated hands, excepting the bright red second time zone hand at six o’clock.
Material and colour aside the watch is identical to the gold version. The case is 39.5mm in diameter, with the self-winding H1950 movement inside. It features a perpetual calendar and second time zone that can be advanced by the button at four o’clock.
Produced by Vaucher, the movement maker in which Hermes Watches Macy’s Replica owns a quarter stake, the H1950 is the same calibre found in the Richard Mille RM 33-01 and the Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar. The perpetual calendar mechanism, however, was devised by Agenhor, the noted Geneva complications specialist.
Price and availability
The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine is priced at SFr38,000 or €33,500.